|
HowTo's
and various Zcar Info 1975 Datsun 280Z
Project
to be finished (started)
- Check
out rear drive train noises (bushings, Ujoints)
- New
Steering Wheel
- Replace
all weather stripping
Replacing
rear differential mount bracket
I
am trying to get rid of the dreaded "Rear end Clunk"
that just about every zcar has. When driving about 25-35
mph, I can gently tap the throttle on and off which generates
a nice loud clunk. I have been trying to isolate the source
and have done alot of research so far. This is what I
found out and tried.
The
rear differential in these cars is pretty bulletproof
from what I've read so i'm trying the inexpensive stuff
first. All bushings should be replaced especially after
33 years. A relatively inexpensive part to replace which
was recommended by the guys at MSA is the differential
mount. About $40.
To
replace: Jack the rear end of your car up, I used two
steel ramps. Make sure your car is very secure before
you get under it! You will need two supports to hold the
differential up while taking supports off. I used two
steel jacks with v-shaped supports. Place one support
under the differential and one under the drivetrain. This
is important as the whole thing will come down if not
careful! Unscrew the 4 bolts on the cross-member. Then
the 2 bolts holding on the lead counterweight. This will
expose the Diff Mount to remove. This was the tuff part.
You
have to be able to get a socket on the 2 bolts which are
unfortunately slightly obscured by one side of the differential
mount. The bolt to the diff mount goes all the way thru
and there is a nut on the top. You will need two wrenches
one for the top and one for the bottom. I cut out the
old rubber of the old diff mount as to be able to get
a socket on the bolts, then used a wrench on the top bolt.
This did the job and I was able to remove the part. Installation
was fairly straight forward. Just bolt up new Diff Mount
and make sure you put the right bolts back in the right
places.
Rear
Carpet Replaced with Motorsports 80/20
I
replaced the old faded back carpet with new 80/20. I got
the carpet from MSA but it was actually from 1AAuto http://www.1aauto.com.
Nice quality and easy to install. Just remove the old
carpet and padding, clean everything and replace with
new set. The set came with padding attached which was
even easier.
Re-Apholstered
Seats
The
seats in my 75 280Z had seen better days and it was time
to have them replaced. I researched all my options and
looked at buying new, using seats from other sports cars
such as an RX7, and finally looked at recovering the originals.
There are companies that sell just the vinyl covers that
completely replace the originals. They are good quality
and look exactly like the originals.
To
replace: Wait for a nice sunny day and fairly warm. This
helps in getting covers over seats (tight fit). Remove
both seats from car by detaching any wires first, then
moving the 4 bolts off under seats. Remove seats and place
in sun.
Remove
old covers and inspect what's underneath. If foam needs
replacing get some new foam at a local crafts store or
apholstery store. Also, if your seats are sagging badly,
which mine were, you need to get the seat repair kit from
MSA. These replace the usually non existent seat supports.
After your done with that it's time for the fun part.
The
seat covers go on pretty tight so get them nice and hot
to stretch them over your seats. See my pics section for
live action shots of these going on. Take your time and
they will eventually fit on. The vinyl will flap over
the metal spikes to secure them on your seats. Once on,
make sure everything is straight and reinstall seats in
your Z! Well worth the $ I think.
Replace
Rear Strut Cartridges
This
one was more work than I origianlly anticipated. So, start
early and have a whole day to spare! I purchased my struts
from Advanced Auto Parts for about $45 per strut for the
rears. Not a bad deal I thought.
Remove
the tires and jack up rear end on one side. I use a hydrolic
jack and also placed a 2 ft. 2x4 between the Jack and
the unibody frame. You would be amazed at how much damage
a just a jack can to to a that week metal / frame underneath.
Remove
the lower bolt of the stabilizer bar. These bushings will
most likely need to be replaced. MSA part. Remove the
inner transverse link large bolts. I found this easier
that removing the outer bolts under the brakes. Once these
large bolts are removed, also remove the bracket holding
the innter transverse link up. Disconnect the brake line
at the upper connection.
Support
the whole wheel assembly with another jack if possible.
Then remove the 3 bolts on top of the strut assembly.
Carefully lower the whole unit and remove it from the
car.
Once off the car, you will need to use a spring compressor
before going further. I used the "FREE" tool
program at Advanced Auto, but many other Auto Parts stores
will supply expensive tools for a fully refundable deposit.
Once springs have been compressed, remove the top bolt
of the strut and remove. Drain hydralic fluid if present.
Replace new strut inserts and reverse installation procedure.
Fuel
Injection System Cleaned (to be done)
I
am embarking on taking off all the injectors of my fiance's
77 280z and having them shipped to Mr. Injector
|
